Understanding why retinol alternatives like bakuchiol and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) are gentler on the skin than conventional retinols and retinoids requires understanding just how these ingredients work.
All retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A that are used to stimulate collagen growth and cause the outer layer of skin to turnover faster, thus renewing skin texture and structure. (Aka, preventing and smoothing out fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging.)
Typically, conventional retinoids (such as Tretinoin or over the counter retinols) work by binding to Retinoic Acid Receptors in the skin after undergoing a chemical change within the skin to produce the needed retinoic acid.
This chemical change can produce a number of harsh side effects on the skin (depending on the retinoid’s potency) such as burning, stinging, scaling, and redness.
Natural retinoids (like Bakuchiol and HPR), meanwhile, do not need to undergo this change. They are able to bind directly to these Retinoic Acid Receptors to stimulate collagen production and cell turnover. Since these ingredients avoid this chemical change within the skin, they are not as harsh— yet still effective— making them an excellent choice for sensitive skin types.